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Key West
Walking Tour
by Deborah Straw
Visiting Key West is like stepping into an old picture
postcard of Florida. Everything except the bright pink
flamingos is here: the pastel cottages; the waving palms;
the long, sandy beaches; and the red, languid sunsets.
Key West is a harmonious island, one where people feel free
to express themselves -- with their clothing, their
haircuts, their lifestyles, and their bodies (i.e., tattoos
and piercings). A recent Citizen of the Day in the local
newspaper said, "If you don't want to be yourself here, be
someone else."
Another way the natives express themselves is through their
architecture and landscaping. Key West is full of
startlingly beautiful architecture. Wooden houses in whites,
pinks, salmons and yellows abound; elegant homes are
surrounded by palms and hibiscus; two- and three-story
houses with wrap-around porches, filigreed wrought iron
balconies, hidden gardens and aquamarine pools. Many have
white picket fences. The scent of frangipani, hibiscus and
roses hangs heavy in the warm air.
Old Town's small clapboard Conch cottages are also immensely
appealing -- with their steep-pitched tin roofs, louvered
wooden shutters and inviting front porches. Many homes are
tiny, only six or seven hundred square feet. People sit in
rattan, wicker or plastic chairs while they read, dream and
play checkers. Colorful chickens, roosters and their biddies
run by as cats and dogs snooze by the roadsides.
The island's National Historic District in Old Town, where
our tour will be centered, includes nearly 3,000 wooden
structures and several fascinating public homes and
museums.
My favorite walking path can start either at South Beach or
Mallory Square, situated on each end of busy Duval Street.
All sites can be reached within an hour from this central
artery. Key West is a near-perfect walking town because itžs
flat and always temperate. The temperature seldom goes below
60 degrees Fahrenheit or above 90. Walking is popular even
among the natives, twenty percent don't own a car.
The San Carlos Institute, La Casa Cuba, stands imposingly
among T-shirt and ice cream shops at 516 Duval Street. With
its Spanish facade, it is a monument to Cuban patriotic
activity. Key West is only 90 miles from Havana, where many
residents call home. The two-story building was erected in
l924 and is the fourth home of the non-profit institute. The
building, with its high ceilings and ornate mosaic tiles,
was restored and reopened as a museum, library, school,
theater and conference center in 1992. The annual January
literary seminar is held here. Guided tours and films are
available in both Spanish and English year round.
Closer to Mallory Square is the John James Audubon House at
205 Whitehead Street, which runs into and becomes parallel
to Duval. The Bahamian-style white clapboard house, one of
the oldest in the city, was built of hardwood mahogany,
cypress, and heart pine in the l830s by ship's carpenters.
Audubon stayed in Key West in l832, while adding 18 bird
species from the Keys to his body of artwork. Many of his
original engravings are on display. Other highlights include
a tropical garden with fabulous white orchids and rare fruit
trees and a gift shop with a tasteful selection.
Also on Whitehead Street, heading back toward South Beach,
is Ernest Hemingway's home at number 970. The writer lived
here between l931 and l940 with his second wife, Pauline.
The Spanish Colonial stone mansion, completed in l851, is
registered as a National Historic Landmark. This is the site
of much of Hemingway's writing, including To Have and Have
Not, Death in the Afternoon, and The Snows of Kilimanjaro.
Many photos of Hemingway and a few early manuscripts are on
display. Also memorable are the 60 foot outdoor pool (Key
West's first), the author's second floor studio, the dark,
antique Spanish and Mexican furniture, a Picasso Cubist cat
sculpture and more than 50 real cats, supposedly descendants
of Papa's feline collection. The gift shop should appeal to
literary cat lovers, in particular.
Almost directly across the street is the Key West
Lighthouse, with its adjoining Maritime Museum. The views of
the city here are some of the best in town; I'd also
recommend those from the roof of the Duval Street Holiday
Inn. The tall Norfolk pines are spectacular. To see where
Key Westers (or Conchs) live, a walk along the side streets
is essential. Some of my favorite streets are Fleming and
Southard, which run perpendicular to Duval and Whitehead,
and the narrow, alluring lanes and streets that crisscross
them.
Fleming Street abounds with many of the characteristic house
styles of the island. Notice the scrollwork on the porches,
upstairs and down, with designs of palm trees, pineapples,
spindles and children. Landscaping is, as everywhere, lush.
Christmas palms, royal poinciana trees, bougainvillea and
the ubiquitous hibiscus grow in almost every yard.
Particularly appealing are the 1880s eyebrow house (see
glossary) charmer (the Samuel Roberts House) at 1025 Fleming
and the gingerbread trim on the pink home at 516
Fleming.Several top-notch guesthouses are on this street, as
well.
Many splendid homes also line Southard Street. Check out the
light pink two-story home at 650 Southard with a widow's
walk and Chinese fan palms in the front yard. Continue on to
the corner of Grinnell and have a cafe con leche or a spicy
Cuban sandwich at 5 Brothers Grocery (930 Southard), a
popular, reasonably-priced hang-out.
Also, in this neighborhood, if you like cats (and who
doesnžt in Key West?), you'll appreciate the whimsical
signage of Universal Cleaners at 510 Elizabeth Street,
between Fleming and Southard.This is not far from the
charming and well-stocked Monroe County May Hill Russell
Library at 700 Fleming Street. Check out its lush palm
garden with 60 palms of 30 varieties.
If you have a car, bicycle or scooter-- or want a longer
walk -- try to get out to Houseboat Row. Approximately two
dozen floating homes, both wooden structures and fiberglass
boats, sport porches, ornate balconies and weathervanes. To
reach them, at South Beach, bear left and stay along the
water, always to your right. The houseboats are 2.7 miles
from South Beach.
Wherever you walk in Key West, you'll discover unexpected
beauty, individual detail, and friendly people. Just take
along your camera, your curiosity and your comfortable
walking shoes.
Architectural terms glossary:
Conch houses -- wooden houses with wide front porches and
louvered windows.
Eyebrow houses -- two-story homes where the second-story
windows are partially covered by the roof, thus resembling
eyebrows. Especially suited for hot climates.
Gingerbread -- decorative carved details, generally on
Victorian houses. Mass produced and/or individually
designed.
Victorian houses -- late 19th century wooden homes.
Generally include ornamental details such as corner brackets
on porches, porch columns, and fretwork fences.
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Choose
a Hotel by Location
Beach
Lovers
Key West is surrounded
by water, but the beaches may not be what you
expect.
Romantic
Getaway
Romance abounds in this
tropical paradise. There are numerous places to stay if
you're visiting Key West with that special
someone.
Leisure
Traveler
If your choice of lodging is a
bed and breakfast, you're in luck.
Families
Although some lodging
facilities prefer adults, many offer kid-friendly
environments.
Gay
Traveler
Key West is one of the most
gay-friendly cities in the U.S.
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